Oxfords - 'Sutura' Wholecut - Handwelted construction - La Fornarina Last
We have chosen the wholecut for the first 'Limited Edition' collection because its is considered the most elegant, yet the most difficult of shoes to construct, due to the fact that that the leather must be stretched over the last using one single piece. It takes hours of mounting, pressing, hammering and remounting the leather to distribute it evenly over the last and remove all the folds and wrinkles.
This particular wholecut is made using calfskin, which is hand dyed to create an 'espresso' or chocolate brown patina, along with a hint of bordeaux on the toe, to achieve a beautiful two tone effect, in which the leather transitions from brown to red with ease, highlighting the flat toe puff of our 'La Fornarina' last. The hand dying technique is a painstaking process, in which numerous layers of dye and a combination of colours are applied to the shoe to achieve the desired effect.
This particular oxford wholecut is made using the most elegant technique in shoe construction, the hand welted construction, which comprises of roughly 160 stitches, completely done by hand, to join the welt to the upper and insole. It features twin hand stitched details that cross diagonally on the upper, from the welt towards the eyelets. It is a technique we call 'la sutura', the Italian name for surgical stitches, due to it resembling the surgical technique.