Oxfords - Wholecut - Norvegese construction - La Simonetta Last
We have chosen the wholecut for the first 'Limited Edition' collection because its is considered the most elegant, yet the most difficult of shoes to construct, due to the fact that that the leather must be stretched over the last using one single piece. It takes hours of mounting, pressing, hammering and remounting the leather to distribute it evenly over the last and remove all the folds and wrinkles.
This particular wholecut is made using calfskin, which is hand dyed to create a 'castagna' or 'chestnut' patina, in which the leather transitions from light to dark, exhibiting a faint 'chiaroscuro' effect that highlights the softly chiseled shape of La Simonetta last. The hand dying technique is a painstaking process, in which numerous layers of dye and a combination of colours are applied to the shoe to achieve the desired effect.
This particular oxford wholecut is made using the Norvegese construction, a painstaking technique comprising of roughly 300 stitches, completely done by hand to join the upper and the inner sole. It is considered one of the most water resistant construction techniques in shoe making, surpassed only by the Tirolese construction. The visible stitching along the outside of the upper, are what makes this technique water tight, it is also a chance for the shoemaker to showcase their skill, as the visible hand stitches must be completed with surgical precision and often with elaborate flair.